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Julian Esquivel and Ted Fees have been creating quality jewelry
designs for over 22 years. Their work is known for being
substantial in weight, with much detail and dimensionality.
All
designs are hand carved from wax, utilizing the lost wax casting
process. After assembling your order, each piece is hand
finished and hand buffed to a perfect surface finish. Unlike
most jewelry companies, Ted and Julian pride themselves in the
fact that they hand make orders when they are received. Making
quality jewelry takes time and when you receive your order you
will be able to see from the first look that pride has been
taken in each and every order created. Below, you can see the
process from start to finish.
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Carving The Original Design
All of the original designs
start with a block of Jeweler's
carving wax. The wax is very
hard and with talent and
patience, any design can be
carved from this material. A
single wax carving will take
several weeks to complete.
Shown here is a Sphinx Cat
design carved from wax. This
will be the "Master Wax" and
from this piece we will make a
mold so that it can be
reproduced and cast in either
gold or silver. |
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Making The Wax To Cast
Esquivel & Fees makes a mold
from the original green wax
master. The Mold is pink rubber
and when the mold is finished,
it is cut in half. The original
is removed and where the
original was, there is now
nothing.
To create the wax for casting
the empty mold is filled, under
pressure, with hot casting wax.
When the wax has cooled, it is
removed from the mold. |
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Preparing The Wax Pieces For
Casting
After removing the wax from the
mold it is inspected and
carefully cleaned. If the wax is
approved, it is then attached to
a special base (shown in blue
above right).
The attached waxes and the
base are called the Tree. |
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Investing The Wax Tree
Each wax "Tree" is placed in a
heavy metal container, called a
Flask. The Flask is filled with
a special white mixture called
Investment. The investment must
be vacuumed in order to remove
any bubbles which may form
during pouring.
After the vacuum process, the
Flask sets, undisturbed for 2
hours. During this time it
hardens. |
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Removing The Wax From The Flask
The wax Tree is now completely
surrounded with hardened
investment. In order to cast,
all of the wax inside must be
removed.
The first step in removing
the wax is in a steam oven. The
steam will melt most of the wax
and it will flow out of a hole
in the bottom of the flask. |
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Burning Out The Flask
The flasks are removed from the
stem oven and then placed in a
computer controlled burnout
oven. This burnout oven will
bring the flask temperature up
to 1700 degrees. At this very
high temperature, all of the
remaining wax will "burn out"
and the temperature will also
make the white investment
extremely hard so that it will
withstand the hot temperature of
the melted metal.
After a period of about 12 hours
the oven will gradually reduce
the flask temperature so that is
it perfect for casting the
melted silver or gold. Once the
burn out process is complete,
the wax will be completely gone.
Basically where the wax was,
Esquivel & Fees will now replace
the empty space with the melted
metal. |
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Casting Into The Flasks
The Casting machine is computer
controlled to assure perfect
castings. Also, the oxygen
inside of the casting machine is
replaced with an inert gas to
prevent the oxygen from
contaminating the silver or gold
during the extremely high
temperatures of the casting
process.
The view (on right) shows the
melted metal inside of the
casting chamber. When the metal
reached the correct temperature,
the Flask is taken out of the
burnout oven, placed under the
melted metal and then it is
sealed inside of the casting
machine.
A vacuum is pulled on the flask
and the melted metal is released
from the melting pot and into
the flask. The vacuum pulls the
metal into the spaces in the
flask that were once wax. When
the metal has cooled, the cast
flask is removed from the
casting machine. |
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Removing The Cast "Tree" From
The Flask
When the flask is removed from
the casting machine, it is still
very hot ... over 900 degrees.
The hot flask is submersed into
cool water and the temperature
change causes the white
investment to break apart,
leaving the Cast metal "Tree"
exposed.
Whatever was wax, is now
metal. |
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Removing The Jewelry From The
Cast Tree
Next, the individual pieces must
be cut off of the Tree.
Cast metal at this stage is
not very attractive and must now
be hand buffed and cleaned.
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Cleaning Freshly Cast Jewelry
Before any work can be done on
your design it must be cleaned
and polished. Esquivel & Fees
polish all of their designs by
hand. This process takes much
longer than quicker methods,
like tumbling, but the final
finish is worth the extra time
and effort.
Buffing is done in three steps.
The first step is with an
aggressive buffing compound and
each successive step uses a
finer compound to produce the
highest quality finish
available. |
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Final Production
After the design is polished,
Esquivel & Fees then solders
rings, attaches settings for
stones and do any other work
necessary to assemble your
design.
After the soldering is
complete, the design is buffed
again. Then your design is
lightly buffed and steam cleaned
to remove any remaining residue.
Now your order is professionally
placed into attractive gift
boxes and is now ready to be
enjoyed. |
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